Climbing

Climbing

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Climbing / Zaghouan

Zaghouan - Oued Delia crags

Climbing cragZaghouan
Zaghouan, Zaghouan
In season

A cluster of small sport-climbing sectors and one long multi-pitch line in the Oued Delia gorge on the north-west side of Jebel Zaghouan, bolted in 2012. Good for beginners and moderate climbers, with shaded and sunny walls close to each other.

Good to know

Point
Parking (GPS 36.38232, 10.114152 from the topo); the sectors are a 10 to 20 min walk up the Oued Delia
Access
From Zaghouan town head for the Temple des Eaux, pass its entrance and take the first road left; it becomes a track, follow it 2.2 km to a parking on the right. A marked path climbs the oued
Rock is dead
5 routes, 5b to 6a; faces north-east, shaded in the afternoon; a few hundred metres up the oued on the right, 10 to 15 min
Slim Fast
4 routes, 6a+ to 6c; faces north to north-east, shaded all day; path marked by cairns on the right before the head of the oued. Avoid disturbing nesting birds
Aich el Nisr
6 routes, 4a to 6a, including the two-pitch Bienvenue au Bled (50 m abseil); faces south to south-east, little shade; 20 min, at the head of the oued
Sous le regard de Fatma
Beginner top-rope sector about 50 m west of Aich el Nisr, faces west: four 15 m grade 4 routes plus two older routes (one 60 m, two pitches, 5b and 6c)
Jusqu'Allah tout va bien
Multi-pitch, 130 m, 4 pitches 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6a; trad gear needed (small nuts, cams); descent by four abseils
La Conque
Two old, very hard routes with doubtful bolts at the top of the oued; listed for information only
Temple des Eaux sector
A separate 8-route sector (3c to 7a, 7 to 20 m) of grey limestone facing north to north-west, a 10 min approach, bolted in May 2012 by Alexis Cacciardi with funding from the Lycee Pierre Mendes France of Tunis; the topo gives no GPS point for it
Rock
Jurassic limestone, partly dolomitised into red, pocketed, often overhanging walls; slabs and tufa-like columns in places
Safety
Young, little-climbed crags: rockfall risk is fairly high, wear a helmet and do not linger at the base. There is no mountain rescue service in Tunisia; carry water and a phone
Rules
Jebel Zaghouan is a nature reserve: no new bolting or vegetation clearing without permission from the authorities
History
Bolted in June 2012 by a 14-strong team from GUCEM (Grenoble) with the Speleo club of Zaghouan, to help start Tunisia's first climbing club

Climbing

Routes
about 22 bolted routes plus 1 multi-pitch; 8 more at the Temple des Eaux sector
Grades
4a to 6c (one old route about 7); Temple des Eaux 3c to 7a
Height
top-rope routes 15 m, two-pitch routes to 60 m, multi-pitch 130 m; Temple des Eaux 7 to 20 m
ROCK
limestone
STYLE
sport, top-rope, multi-pitch
APPROACH
10 to 20 min up the Oued Delia from the parking
Sectors
  • Rock is dead
  • Slim Fast
  • Aich el Nisr
  • Sous le regard de Fatma
  • La Conque
  • Jusqu'Allah tout va bien (multi-pitch)
  • Temple des Eaux

Getting there

36.3823N 10.1142E

Photographs

Nearby trails

Sources

Photos: Smailtn (CC BY-SA 4.0), Houssembo (CC BY-SA 4.0)